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One of the many alpine meadows in the Miyar.

Chris Bonington dubbed the Miyar valley “the Yosemite of the Himalayas”. The goal of the trip would be first ascents of Alpine granite ridges, faces and towers. June is a great month to go into the area for Big alpine rock climbing. The Indian Himalayas are politically stable, have extraordinary granite climbing and a wealth of unclimbed routes.

 

Here are the two most recent trips into the region that show the excellent quality granite climbing of the area.
Here’s another trip report to give an idea of our plan:
Scanning for ibex in the Miyar Valley.
Scanning for ibex in the Miyar Valley. (image: Celesta Fong)

FIRST ASCENTS IN MIYAR?

For many of the peaks in the Miyar valley there are no records of prior ascents.  We also oftentimes find no evidence of other humans visiting the summits of peaks before.  Instead of looking at these peaks as our being the first to put bootprints on the summit, we like to simply enjoy the solitude of the region.  With the popularized trekking routes being fairly busy from day to day in Ladakh, we usually don’t see another soul in the Miyar valley region, save for a local boy out searching for his grazing yaks.

TRUST

Climbing a peak at 6000 meters is no place to be short on resources.  We make the proper advance preparations to ensure that our team will be properly cared for, from airport to summit to airport.

FEATURES

  • First ascents of Alpine granite ridges, faces and towers in Miyar valley, India
  • Spectacular camps in remote grassy meadows next to snow melt streams
  • Team mentality
  • Instruction in rock-climbing and mountaineering

Phugtal Monastery.

Views from peak 6005 in the Mayar valley.

Crossing the Kang La.

Crossing the Kang La.

Jullay and Namaste.

ITINERARY

Day 1 – arrive Delhi, India
2 – fly Manali
3 – drive Keylong
4 – drive Urgus School house
5 – trek Tharang
6 – climbing day
7 – trek Many Lake Camp
8 – climbing day
9 – trek Miyar glacier Camp one
10 – climbing day
11 – trek Miyar glacier Camp two
12 – climbing day
13 – trek Kang La north camp
14 – trek Togpo
15 – drive Kargil (through scenic Suru valley with view of 7000m Nun and Kun)
16 – drive Leh
17 – depart Leh for home

Dates

June or September (17 days)

Region

India

Difficulty

Moderate

Price

Inquire

Trip Deposit: US$1000

Group Size

Minimum 2 maximum 6 climbers

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Luke Smithwick's small group exploratory climbing and skiing expeditions. Custom expeditions of any level of difficulty to any point in the Himalayas

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