Image: Andrew Lock (http://bit.ly/2bJ6Ndu)
We’ve chosen Makalu for our 8000 meter climb due to Nepal’s consistency in permit availability (compared to Cho Oyu), and ease of access (Gasherbrum Two contains some truly painful red tape to obtain a visa and even enter Pakistan).
“While standing on top of Everest, I looked across the valley, towards the other great peak, Makalu, and mentally worked out a route about how it could be climbed… it showed me that, even though I was standing on top of the world, it wasn’t the end of everything for me, by any means. I was still looking beyond to other interesting challenges.” Edmund Hillary.
Just 22Km east of Everest and 80Km west of Kangchenjunga, Makalu has a distinctive pyramid shape, with its South East and North Western ridges being most prominent. The latter provides the normal route used by the majority of climbers attempting the summit. From a base camp at the foot of the Chago Glacier, 5 camps are placed on the mountain, including Camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,400m and a high camp on the North Face at approximately 7,600m.
Climbing route. Photo credit: Kumaran Rasappan http://climbeverest2012.wordpress.com/
LEADERSHIP
Andrew Lock will be leading this trip, and also climbing with you on the mountain. Andrew has climbed all fourteen 8000 meter peaks without oxygen, the experienced leader. Additionally, one Nepali guide will be present for every climber on the peak (and climbing with them). All camps on mountain will be stocked and pitched in advance, with the route fixed in places deemed necessary by the Sherpa climbing team and Andrew.
COST EFFECTIVE. FULL SERVICE
Our base camp at Makalu BC/ABC will be fully stocked with a variety of meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with snacks. We will have hot showers in camp, two pit toilets, and each member will have their own roomy 2 person Mountain Hardwear tent. The purpose of a base camp is for you to have a place to recover, and relax, and have space from the mountain to collect your thoughts, gather your energy reserves, and move to climbing on the mountain. We will make two rotations on the mountain before making our summit bid. A rotation entails climbing on the peak, spending nights in established and stocked camps, and then returning to our base camp for a hot shower, fresh meals, and relaxing. Our goal as a guide service is to provide a climb that keeps you strong, physically healthy, and mentally prepared for your summit.
PROVING GROUND
Makalu is an excellent segue way into Everest and other difficult 8000 meter peaks. Come and challenge yourself on a Himalayan giant.
TRUST
Climbing at 8000 meters is no place to be short on resources. We make the proper advance preparations to ensure that our team will be properly cared for, from airport to summit to airport.
ROUTE
North Face / Northeast Ridge.
FEATURES
- Makalu expedition climb | 8,485m/27,838ft
- 1:1 Sherpa: climber ratio
- Team mentality
Helicopter approach and retreat, excellent base camp food and the opportunity to summit one of the world’s challenging 8000 meter peaks.
Andrew Lock
Tashi Delek and Namaskar
ITINERARY
Day 1 — Arrive Kathmandu
2 – At leisure in Kathmandu
3 – Fly Lukla
4 – Helicopter Yangla Kharka
5 – Acclimatize Yangla Kharka
6 – Trek Langmale
7 – Trek Makalu BC
8 – 10 – Acclimatization at Base Camp. Rather than use the North Ridge Base Camp, you stay at the much nicer South East Ridge Base Camp.
11 – 40 – Ascent of Makalu North East Ridge
41 – Helicopter Tumlingtar
42 – Fly Kathmandu
43 – Kathmandu
44 – depart Kathmandu
Dates
April-May, 44 days
Region
Nepal
Difficulty
Very Advanced
Price
Inquire
Trip Deposit: US$5,000
