༄ The Langtang region is the most accessible alpine region from Kathmandu. On clear days you can see the glaciated peaks of Langtang from the Kathmandu valley. Langtang is a narrow valley between the main Himalayan range to the north and a slightly lower subsidiary range to the South.
Langtang is home to the Tamang people whose pastoral lifestyle, rich Buddhist culture and traditions are very similar to the neighboring Tibetans just one valley to the North. Most people visit the region for the mountain views and to interact with the fascinating locals, experiencing a subsistence pastoral lifestyle that has persisted for the past ~1200 years. Our experience on this expedition will be exploring these attributes of the valley while attempting the first ascent of unclimbed Pemthang Ri. We will meet in Kathmandu and then fly into Langtang the following day. Once we are in Kyanjin Gompa, we will acclimatize on the surrounding hills and then shift to our base camp for our climb.
Image: himalaya-info.com
Base camp, camp one, camp two, summit
The rocky headwall that we will likely need to fix rope up from base camp to camp one.
Prayer flags. Langtang.
FEATURES
- First ascent attempt in Nepal Himalaya
- Helicopter flight in and out of Langtang National Park
- Team mentality
Sunset as viewed from Kyanjin Gompa (this is Gangchenpo peak). Langtang.
Tashi Delek and Namaskar.
ITINERARY
Day 1 – arrive Kathmandu (feel free to arrive earlier to unwind from travel and to visit sites in Kathmandu, we can arrange)
2 – helicopter flight to Kyangjin Gomba 3835m
3 – acclimatization hike to 4800m
4 – acclimatization hike to 4800m
5 – acclimatization hike to 4800m (why four nights? we have to ensure no one has altitude issues flying to 4868m)
6 – helicopter flight to Pemthang Ri base camp (why flying? it’s the same cost as walking and having porters carry the loads)
7 – climbing preparation in base camp 4868m (Luke and Sherpas begin fixing the first portion of route to camp one)
8 – acclimatization hike to 5500m (Luke and Sherpas continue fixing the second portion of route to camp one)
9 – climb camp one, descend BC (Luke and Sherpas climb ahead and fix route with group following with light packs) 5932m / 4868m
10 – move camp one 5932m
11 – acclimatize at camp one day 7
12 – climb camp two, sleep camp one
13 – move camp two 6237m
14 – acclimatize camp two (Luke and Sherpas fix to summit)
15 – make first ascent of Pemthang Ri – 6743m
16 – descend base camp – 4868m
17-21 – extra days*
22 – fly Kathmandu
23 – depart Kathmandu
*extra days are used for acclimatization, weather, and other imponderables. We need these days if we want to summit, this is a first ascent. We are climbing with Sherpas and fixed ropes to increase our chances of success. If we come to the peak and find that we can all climb together in alpine style without fixing ropes, then we will do so. We are bringing everything as we don’t know what we’re going to find. This is exploratory climbing in the Himalayas.
Dates
November (23 days)
Region
Nepal
Difficulty
Very Advanced
Price
Inquire
Trip Deposit: US$1000
