Luke Smithwick

Luke Smithwick is the owner and founder of Himalaya Alpine Guides. He works for the majority of the year in Tibet, India, and Nepal on his pursuits as a sponsored skier and climber and the other part guiding skiing and climbing expeditions for Himalaya Alpine Guides. Since the age of 18, his chief profession has been guiding. His expedition experience includes Everest from Tibet (North, Northeast ridge), 8013m Shishapangma (Northwest buttress, ski descent), Denali (west buttress, ski traverse), 8167m Dhaulagiri (ski descent), 8035m Gasherbrum Two, 7126m Himlung, and too many Himalayan 6000 meter peaks to mention (and many with ski descents). He prides himself on providing high quality trips at international guiding standards with an emphasis on each members personal goals and levels of risk tolerance.

During the 2014-2018 winter season, Luke was the snow safety director for a Gulmarg ski resort in Kashmir, and the backcountry avalanche forecaster (gulmarg-avalanche-advisory.com) for the region as well. Now, he is best when working in the Himalayan backcountry and is equally comfortable leading on skis or in climbing boots. Luke has logged more than 1500 days backcountry skiing, has first ski descents on 6 different continents and has skied from 8000 meters.
2022 will see him on nine Himalayan expeditions in Tibet, Nepal, Pakistan and India.

Read an article about Luke here

Professional and personal experience

  • 8848m Everest – North Ridge
  • 8013m Shishapangma – Northwest buttress ski expedition
  • 8167m Dhaulagiri – Northeast ridge ski expedition
  • 8035m Gasherbrum Two – Southwest ridge ski expedition
  • Sixty four (64) Himalayan 6000 meter summits that do not have names
  • 7135m Mount Nun – west ridge
  • 7250m Labuche Kang Three
  • 6190m Denali – Ski Traverse
  • 6190m Denali – West Buttress Ski Expedition
  • 7126m Himlung – west face route two times
  • 6512m Bhagirathi 2 – northwest ridge
  • 6439m Z-1 – west face
  • 6330m Saldim Ri – southwest ridge two times
  • 6666m Lungser Kangri – west ridge two times (one ski descent)
  • 6259m Mentok Kangri 1-6 traverse (18 hours)
  • Kang Yatze One (18 hours from base camp, solo)
  • 6350m Mount Nirekha – west ridge two times
  • 7126m Mount Satopanth – northwest ridge
  • 6129m Kyajo Ri – Southwest ridge
  • Big Wall – Lost Brother Wall – New route “Call of the Yeti” – Yosemite National Park
  • 6529m Mount Hagshu – East Face
  • Peak 6410m – “Indifference of the Lammergeier” – North Face
  • 7043m Lhakpa Ri Ski Expedition
  • Peak 6080m Ski Expedition – First Descent
  • Peak 6110m Ski Expedition – First Descent
  • Labuche Kang Three East (the world’s highest unclimbed peak)
  • Gangsthang East face – alpine style two times
  • Singu Chuli – Southeast ridge
  • Nirekha – North face – first ascent in alpine style
  • New multi-pitch traditional climbing routes on granite in India’s Zanskar Himalayas
  • First ascent – Solitude – Granite North face at 6000 meters in the Pangong Himalayas of India

Credentials

  • Bachelor of Arts – Cultural Anthropology
  • Bachelor of Sciences – Environmental Biology
  • WMA Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician
  • AIARE Level 3 Avalanche certification / Pro 2 + AIARE instructor certification
  • WMS Wilderness First Responder (current)
  • Rescue III Swiftwater Rescue Technician
  • 21 Years Guiding Experience
  • Professional member – American Avalanche Association
  • Professional member – American Mountain Guides Association
  • Professional Working Proficiency (Languages): Hindi, Nepali, Tibetan, Kashmiri, Ladakhi, Spanish

Specific Interests in the Himalaya

  • Himalayan Pastoralism and it development along the Changtang plateau
  • Skiing
  • The Ancient Salt Trade routes
  • Tibetan language and its dialects
  • Tibetan Antelope in the southern plains of Rupshu
  • Wolves of the Changtang plateau
  • Snow Leopard of Hemis National Park
  • Exploratory climbing and skiing in remote Ladakh, Garhwal, and Arunachal Pradesh, and Nepal.
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Luke-smithwick
“

Thanks for guiding me through that world and for giving me the opportunity to have my own experiences.. You have the passion and the skill to excel in those mountains and you did a fine job from difficult start to dramatic finish.. Remember me to your crew and thank them once again. They are great outdoorsmen, as are you.

R. Cross
“

You go to peaks that are off the beaten track, that is your differentiate. Don’t change it. Great job, thanks.

G. Lombardo
“

Maybe I am a purist but I like the formula of expeditions without heaters, showers and all this additional, unnecessary stuff.
Your biggest strength is experience and willingness to adapt according to situations like during this expedition. You also have fantastic staff.

A. Pilarczyk
“

The leader (Luke) did not spoon feed clients to get to the summit there was a level of independence for each client to make it happen. The trip was definitely an adventure – and for me this is what I wanted out of my holiday. It was great that we never stuck to a pre-prescribed itinerary (adding peaks and destinations). This was the greatest part of the trip. Luke’s passion for being in the mountains, combined with the dynamic trip plans, and professionalism in critical times made the trip AWESOME. Thanks Luke.

A. Buckingham
“

A very good leader, a very good crew.

F. Lawrence
“

Luke’s company is different that a lot of the bigger commercial guides – 1) smaller teams, 2) goes to less climbed, less busy Himalayan peaks, 3) has a dedicated solid team of sherpas/support, 4) more flexible/adaptable, less rigid, based on mountain conditions, client dynamics and skills. It is a more personalized experience, you will not be getting the typical “group think” behavior from a larger guiding company that often leads to frustration and slow decision making. I would relay my own positive experiences, namely: your appreciation and respect for a client’s independence while climbing (obviously where appropriate) and that there was less hand-holding and babysitting — which is sometimes the trademark of larger companies. You were similarly respectful of the Sherpas’ talents and leadership, giving them some leeway in the fixing and climbing decisions.

T. Hedberg
“

The team is very professional and the mountaineering aspect of the trip is both challenging yet appropriately safe.

P. Nilsson
“

Great service all around.

S. Raza
“

I like your style of climbing and good consideration of abilities and needs of people on the trip. Rest of staff is good in that regard as well. Overall, pace of trip is good, and flexibility.

J. Clayton

Come skiing, climbing and trekking with us.

Camille de Bueger
Camille de Bueger
2022-10-28
Amazing experience with Himalaya Alpine Guides. Super professionnal team, listening, and leading us at the top with determination. Ladakh was an amazing trip, we loved nature, People, culture and food. Thanks again!!
Lillian Llacer
Lillian Llacer
2022-07-02
I recently returned home from a ski mountaineering expedition to 6,000 m peaks in the Ladakh region of northern India with Luke and Himalaya Alpine Guides. I pretty much had a smile stuck on my face for the entire two weeks. Just thinking about it brings me back to that happy place, cruising up the Markha Valley in awe of the grandeur, slowly climbing higher through the culturally and historically rich local settlements, and finally reaching the snow. Our beautiful horses carried our camp, our local crew, who Luke has worked with for over a decade, took care of every comforting detail, Luke kept us laughing, learning, exploring, climbing, safely moving through the vast wildness of the Himalaya. Phuntsok fed us amazingly delicious and nutritious curries, dahls, warm bread, chai, espresso, and somehow we had fresh fruit and vegetables the whole trip. Luke has a mellow and respectful attitude, with a high value on keeping the fun factor high in every stage of the trip, including planning and training. He’s got a pristine safety record and works diligently to keep it that way. We all know that Luke has the technical skills, strength, and managerial experience to be an exceptional guide. He also has a genuine appreciation for people, from both near and far, and a deep dedication to protecting the places he loves, through environmental activism (recently moving HAG towards carbon neutrality) and education. I sit in gratitude for the experiences I just had, and eagerly await when my turn to return to the Himalaya rolls around again.
Jonathan Stead
Jonathan Stead
2022-06-17
Luke was constantly sharing local knowledge, contextual background, local language, and historical insights on our six-day approach. the food was superb, prepared fresh daily by the local cook. the tents and dining tent were ample, in excellent condition, and comfortable. on the approach we covered glacier travel, as well as skills for the technical aspects we might encounter on the mountains. by the time we got to the mountains themselves, everyone in the team had rehearsed and we all felt safe. a safe, comfortable trip to a completely remote zone of outstanding descents, with local insight, great food, and a professional guide. i have no notes.
Peter Nilsson
Peter Nilsson
2022-01-13
Luke is a fantastic guide, he takes amazing care of his guided clients and his professional crew. In addition to the adventure of the mountains, he takes time to explore and understand the local culture, and is interested in pursuing an authentic experience. Our trip was once-in-a-lifetime… until I can free some time for the next one.
Kathryn Sullivan
Kathryn Sullivan
2021-12-28
When I was 18 my mom and I took a trip to the Himalayas and used Luke Smithwick’s guiding services. 10 years later I still have yet to find mountains that compare to the Himalayas not just in magnitude or intensity but in the experiences that these mountains can give you, they can change you if you let it. It’s a place so special not just because of its big mountains but also because of the people that live there, their culture, and the perspective it can give you. Of course it’s a place you wouldn’t ever want to over exploit, a place you would want to keep secret from the world so that flocks of people don’t go and try and change it, westernize it. However, it’s also a place that I urge everyone to go experience because of what it gave me. I understand why luke has spent so much of his time exploring and guiding in these landscapes. I feel very lucky to have been able to see it and be exposed to it through his eyes. You can tell his love for this place exudes through his whole being and it’s unique how he is able to share that love with the people that he guides there.
Ed Lunken
Ed Lunken
2021-12-23
Did a ski mountaineering trip with Luke to the Karakoram back in June '18 and highly recommend. Luke is an enthusiast and is keen to explore less obvious spots, keeping it to a small group without seeking to become an impersonal commercial operator. He takes safety seriously, with tons of experience from running the safety team in Gulmarg. He had great on the ground knowledge, so always felt in good hands - and had a top time.
Michael Lekawa
Michael Lekawa
2021-12-02
Trekked the Karakoram in June with 2 friends along with 2 others. Had an amazing and surreal experience. Luke was absolutely outstanding in all aspects. I always felt informed and safe. High quality tents and authentic food. Best of all, great company and conversation all day, especially at dinner. Highest recommendation….. if you have considered this on your bucket list, Luke is your guide.
Jeremy Grant
Jeremy Grant
2021-11-30
Himalaya Alpine Guides toured us through Ladakh India and it was a once in a lifetime trip. Although I’m sure logistics were challenging we never felt that. Luke and his team made it feel easy and streamlined.
Keree Smith
Keree Smith
2021-11-27
Skiing in the Himalayas is an experience like none other. Luke has an extensive background and network in both the local culture and as a professional ski-mountaineering guide. Each trip with Himalayan Mountain Guides is customized and unique. I highly recommend this for exploratory backcountry skiers and mountaineers.
Google rating score: 5 of 5, based on 17 reviews