Cho Oyu | 8201m – September 2018

Cho Oyu

image: Andrew Lock (

We’ve chosen Cho Oyu (8201m) for our next 8000 meter expedition for several reasons. Firstly, it is one of the most obtainable 8000 meter summits, and has a reputation for being one of the “easiest”. It is a good segue way and test for climbing Everest and also for preparing for other technical 7000 and 8000 meter peaks. Secondly, it lacks the steeper slopes that other 8000 meter peaks have, and it also doesn’t have technical or mixed climbing on the standard route (save for the short 150′ “ice wall” and the Yellow Band), our route of choice. Finally, summit rates on the peak are quite good even in marginal weather.

Leadership. Luke Smithwick will be leading this trip, and also climbing with you on the mountain. Additionally, one Sherpa will be present for every climber on the peak (and climbing with them). All camps on mountain will be stocked and pitched in advance, with the route fixed in places deemed necessary by the Sherpa climbing team and Luke.

Cost Effective. Full Service. Our base camp at Cho Oyu BC/ABC will be fully stocked with a variety of meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with snacks. We will have hot showers in camp, two pit toilets, and each member will have their own roomy 2 person Mountain Hardwear tent. The purpose of a base camp is for you to have a place to recover, and relax, and have space from the mountain to collect your thoughts, gather your energy reserves, and move to climbing on the mountain. We will make two rotations on the mountain before making our summit bid. A rotation entails climbing on the peak, spending nights in established and stocked camps, and then returning to our base camp for a hot shower, fresh meals, and relaxing. Our goal as a guide service is to provide a climb that keeps you strong, physically healthy, and mentally prepared for your summit.

Proving Ground. Cho Oyu is an excellent segue way into Everest and other difficult 8000 meter peaks. Come and test yourself on a Himalayan giant.

Trust. Climbing at 8000 meters is no place to be short on resources. We make the proper advance preparations to ensure that our team will be properly cared for, from airport to summit to airport.

Route. We will be climbing the Northwest ridge. The NW ridge is the route with the most likelihood for summit success on Cho Oyu and is the common route by commercial expeditions.

>Cho Oyu expedition climb | 8201m
>Spectacular and scenic approach via Lhasa
>1:1 Sherpa:climber ratio
>Team mentality

Included Extras
Single Room Kathmandu
Personal Climbing Sherpa
Sherpa Summit Bonus
Kitchen Staff Gratuities
Oxygen, Mask & Regulator
Lhasa Flight

trip deposit US$5000

3 September – 13 October 2018 (41 days)


Luke Smithwick

Luke has guided on Everest, Shishapangma, and numerous 7000 meter peaks. He has climbed to more summits in the Himalayas than any American climber in history. He is the experienced leader. More about him here: Luke Smithwick


Our service includes
4 nights hotel in Kathmandu
All other accommodation while present on scheduled trip itinerary
Ground transportation by private vehicle
‘Himalaya Alpine Guides’ Expedition style mountaineering trip: Delicious meals, french press coffee and herbal teas, all porterage on approach/retreat, local guides and staff, Mountain Hardwear expedition tents, equipped dining tent, experienced western guide, 1:1 Sherpa: climber ratio.
Solar charging for electronics
Himalaya Alpine Guides duffel bag
personal 5 watt walkie talkie (that actually works)
Sherpa climbing bonuses
up-to-date weather forecasting
internet and satellite phone access

Our service excludes
Trip/medical/rescue insurance
International flights
China Visa (We will assist you with this on visa day in Kathmandu)
Meals while not on expedition (Kathmandu)
Personal climbing equipment
Puja cost (allow US$50)
Items of a personal nature (laundry, bar bills, personal gratuities, etc.)

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu – Monday 3 September 2018
2 – China visa day
3 – Fly Kathmandu to Lhasa – 3650m
4 – Lhasa – 3650m
5 – Lhasa – 3650m
6 – Drive Shigatse
7 – Shigatse
8 – Drive Tingri
9 – Tingri
10 – Drive Cho Oyu Base Camp – 4900m
11 – Acclimatization Hike above Cho Oyu BC
12 – Acclimatization Hike above Cho Oyu BC
13 – Acclimatization Hike above Cho Oyu BC
14 – Trek Cho Oyu ABC – 5638m
15 – Acclimatization and Rest Cho Oyu ABC – 5638m
16 – Acclimatization Hike above Cho Oyu ABC – 5638m
17 – Acclimatization Hike above Cho Oyu ABC – 5638m
18 – Climb Cho Oyu Camp 1, sleep Camp 1 – 6278m
19 – Descend to Cho Oyu ABC – 5638m
20 – Rest day  – 5638m
21 – Rest day – 5638m
22 – Rest day – 5638m
23 – Climb Camp 1 – 6278m
24 – Climb Camp 2 – 6705m
25 – Climb Camp 3, descend Camp 1 – 7467m / 6278m
26 – Descend ABC 5638m
27 – Rest Day ABC 5638m
28 – Rest Day ABC 5638m
29 – Rest Day ABC 5638m
30 – Rest Day ABC 5638m
31 – Climb Camp 1 6278m
32 – Climb Camp 2 6705m
33 – Climb Camp 3 – 7467m
34 – Climb Summit, Descend Camp 2 – 8201m
35 – Descend ABC
36 – Rest ABC
37 – Pack up ABC
38 – Trek Roadhead, Drive Tingri
39 – Drive Kyirong
40 – Drive Syabrubesi
41 – Kathmandu (depart Kathmandu or stay on) – Saturday 13 October 2018

Tashi Delek and Namaskar